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When curating a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might foresee renowned high-end establishments. But, tucked prominently among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung part of north London.

A Shocking Recognition

This compact Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. This honour has left the owners totally shocked.

“I’m completely astonished,” says a owner’s son, referring to his parents’ dedication that led to their modest shop earning such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its original feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” says the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the fare, and this restaurant definitely excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent consistency.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for below £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can cost many times that amount.

The Ethos of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Dedication

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not train at elite establishments. “I feel truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate beyond its own walls. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this gastronomic honour.